The end of 2015 and beginning of 2016 saw a lot of shifts and turns in the fashion industry, including designers playing musical chairs! Besides the introduction of 'see now, buy now' system - which I salute, the change that intrigued me the most was naming Anthony Vaccarello the new creative director of YSL.
I don't know about you, but when I think of YSL woman, I think of a powerful woman, a seductress, clad in masculine tuxedo but feminine and sexy none the less. I think of Helmut Newton's photos, and the women he photographed, so confident in their bodies and owning their sexuality (and nudity) without exploiting it. As Tom Ford said himself: "The Saint Laurent woman is more twisted, more perverse. She is going to tie you up and slap you around before she finally lets you have sex with her. And a lot of that doesn't come so much from Yves, it comes from all those provocative Helmut Newton pictures of YSL clothes from the '70s."
True, it's not entirely Yves' legacy. What Hedi Slimane did for the last four years is closer to the true legacy of Yves Saint Laurent, if you think about it. But I hope Anthony Vaccarello will build on what many people see as a YSL DNA - androgyny mixed with provocative femininity, seduction and sharp masculinity in the forms. That's what he has delivered in the past anyway - both under his own eponymous label and Versus Versace label. Honestly, I can't wait to see what he's up to!
photos via Pinterest